1. Lift the car and secure it with jack stands. Ramps will also work. Remove lower engine splash shield.
2. Remove side grilles from bumper. Use a slotted screwdriver through the grille inserts and pry the two tabs behind the inner most edge of each of the inserts.
3. Remove 3 bolts securing each headlight in place. Use caution when removing bolt behind the turn signal bulbs, as they are hard to retrieve if dropped.
4. Disconnect headlight plug. From the turn signal end, pull the headlight forward slightly, and then slide outwards to remove from inner locating dowel.
5. Remove headlight and disconnect turn signal bulb connector. You can also remove the bulb and connector together.
6. Remove two torx screws securing bumper to inner fender liner. One screw per side. Disconnect washer fluid hose.
7. Using a 6mm Hex bit, remove bolts (2) securing bumper to bumper shocks. One per side.
8. Pull upwards and outwards on the rear outer corner of the bumper. This will unclip the lower part of the bumper from the fender mount.
9. Push downwards and outwards on the same corner of the bumper to unclip the top section from the fender mount.
10. Repeat on other side of car and carefully remove bumper, taking care not to scratch the fenders in the process.
11. Remove Philips screw holding each Intercooler shroud in place. Set shrouds aside.
12. Remove three Torx bolts securing each bumper shock to the radiator support. Remove 10mm Nut.
1. Lower the tailgate.
2. Remove the eight (8) T-30 screws to the access panel on the inside of the tailgate. Remove the panel.
3. Disconnect the tailgate mechanism rods from the purple and orange clips.
4. Remove the two (2) M6 x 8mm bolts to the tailgate latch and remove the latch from the tailgate.
5. Remove the retaining clip to the tailgate lock mechanism and remove the lock assembly. Take care not to cut fingers.
6. Install the lock assembly in the new tailgate latch provided with the camera kit. The new latch includes an opening for the camera.
7. Install the camera by using the two (2) M6 x 10mm bolts provided with the kit. The locator pins on the new latch will position the camera.
8. Install the new tailgate latch/camera assembly. Tighten the bolts to 48 lb f-in. Discard the original tailgate latch.
9. Route the camera pigtail harness through the tailgate towards the passenger side of the vehicle.
a. Fasten two black clips on the camera pigtail in the holes on the tailgate located just above the lock mechanism as shown.
b. Fasten the camera pigtail connector clip to the tailgate as shown.
First of all you need to specify to pace exactly which MI16 engine you have (an 1.9 alloy block, or a 2 litre steel block and also what the expected bhp is). The kit from Pace includes a new cast alloy sump complete with baffles, 3 stage 1.1″ pump, removable filtered pick up assemblies, scavenge pipes & clips, crank shaft pulley and drive belt. Depending on how exactly you intend on installing the system you will also need the oil tank, a remote filter head assembly and filter adapter.
Tank – Pace supplied me with a DS6.5″.5 litre tank, which came complete with the two breather elbows as shown in the picture. The tank has a 3mm thick foot plate and you will need 4 rubber mounts to fit it to your car – Pace can also supply these. Depending on the connector system you decide upon (Pace recommend JIC fittings) you will also need 2 adapters for the tank.
Remote Filter Head – There are many remote filters available on the market, but Pace’s unit is hand finished to ensure the best possible flow and to minimise pressure loss and cavitation that can be found in other units.
Filter Adapter – The filter adapter is fitted onto the engine block in the position normally occupied by the oil filter and/or oil cooler take off adapter. The adapter comprises of a machined aluminium plate with ‘o’ rings, a threaded adapter to suit both the hose fittings being used and the engine block tapped hole.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
3. Remove the front bulkhead cover (two expansion clips, three clips and move the right and left fender trims inward).
4. With the help of an assistant, remove the front bumper (four long clips, four center clips, two socket bolts and two self-tapping screws). To prevent damage, set the front bumper on a blanket.
5. Apply masking tape to the front bumper (left side) in the area shown.
6. On the inside of the front bumper, locate the eight marks on the left side of the bumper. Using a pushpin, pierce the front bumper at each of the eight marks.When the mark at the illustrated position is not visible, measure the dimensions and make a mark on the front bumper with a pushpin as shown in the illustration.
7. While wearing eye protection, drill a 20 mm hole through each of the eight marks of the front bumper with a 20 mm holesaw.
8. Using a hacksaw blade, cut out the marked area from the front bumper. Take care not to damage the front bumper. After cutting out the marked area, remove any burrs from the edges of the hole.
9. Using utility knife, cut out the two pieces of bumper in the two areas shown. If there are the pins on the front bumper, cut them off as shown.
10. Repeat steps 5 thru 9 to mark and cut out for the right side of the bumper.
11. Position the left bracket A and left bracket B on the left fog light, and install the two small stepped screws and one 4 x 8 mm washer screw. Tighten the screws securely. Assemble the right fog light in the same way as left side. Before installing the bracket A and bracket B, check the identification mark: The bracket marked “L” goes on the left side; the bracket marked “R” goes on the right side.
1. Insert the tool into the side gap between the edge of the clock assembly and the dash panel. GENTLY, pry out that edge of the clock. Insert your fingers into the gap and pull firmly to completely remove the clock from the dash panel. Once the clock has been pulled out, unplug the plastic connector attached to the rear of the clock.
2. Once the clock assembly has been removed locate and remove one (1) phillips screw.
3. Look on the curved underside of the dash panel. Locate and remove two (2) phillips screws.
4. All screws securing the dash have now been removed. The plastic dash panel itself snaps into the main dash assembly. Begin by pulling gently on either the bottom curve of the dash panel or one of the top corners of the dash panel. Continue to pull until all sides of the plastic dash panel have slightly pulled away from the main dash assembly. Then pull the entire plastic dash panel away from the main dash assembly.
5. Once the plastic dash panel has been pulled out from the main dash assembly, turn the panel around so that you can see the wires attached to the rear side. Unplug all connectors attached to the air conditioner controls. The radio is secured by four (4) screws, your vehicle will either have four (4) phillips screws or four (4) 8 mm bolt screws. Remove the screws and pull the radio out of the dash. Unplug the wire harness connector and the black antenna cable from the rear of the radio.